Making Sense of Amigurumi #2

pusheen-chart-done.jpg

Yes fellas, we are dissecting pusheen! No, we are nut cutting down that chubby adorable cat. Rather, we are using the pusheen crochet pattern I have posted few weeks back to learn a little more, on how to make sense of crocheting cute critters. Please do keep in mind that the technique for crocheting animals and others like doilies quite differs.

I believe there is a theory for everything. Therefore I believe there is a theory to understand the basics of amigurumi in order to find a logical way to design items (although it might not work all the time, but for me it does work most of the time).

Dissecting Pusheen

The pusheen pattern I have made before is a befitting example, because its rather simple and quite easy to follow. Applying from what we have learned from part #1, this part will explain how to implement those basics into making your own design. Of course, its also about trial and error, but hey this also makes things easier! Pusheen is quite easy because its body is round and simple, also because the sphere gets smaller as you go until the end.

So imagine that I just want to design a pusheen amigurumi pattern, and just sketch a pusheen body just as a guideline to make the pattern. From there I line up the parts where it might show where it would increase, decrease, or just static. I think Pusheen makes a great example because it has a chubby body which basically gradually decrease the size from bottom to top. Since amigurumi is also made from bottom to top, this is perfect to demonstrate how drawing a rough chart such as the example above might help you to determine the pattern drafting when you make your own design. Of course, not much people do this but this is basically an illustrated and narrated form of what I had in mind when I’m making my designs. As I said, I believe that there is a theory for everything. Thus, this is my amigurumi theory.

Now pusheen is not just chubby, she is rather fat. So we would need more than a roundish base. That means the magic ring should be above 6 (refer back to the chart in part #1). Say then, 7 or 8. But since I want it mini, perhaps I should start testing it with a 7 MR. It fits, so 7 it is. By the way, I opted out the ear part in this explanation because it doesn’t fit the basic explanation I’m doing here but I included it in the chart to make it clear that the ears were an “additional part” included at the very end of the basic body we are discussing right now.

Outlining the Pattern

Okay, so I think it would be easier if I write down the pattern from the previous post here, excluding the ear parts. This is how I originally write down patterns I made in my notes:

MR (7)

inc

sc, inc

2 sc, inc

3 sc, inc

sc around 3x

3 sc, inv dec

sc around 2x

2sc, inv dec

sc

sc, inv dec

 

Alright, so I just do the usual increasing phase until I think its round enough around the belly (because pusheen has her roundest/widest part around the belly). Since I’m happy with the shape, I am going to stop increasing at (3 sc, inc). The mid body part has around the same width, so we are going to apply (sc around) here. There is no exact method to apply how many round of sc’s you will need. this needs to be determined by gut feeling and experience, but of course you will get there at some point. Remember that I have mentioned that usually for small size plushies (especially for heads) the common number of rounds for (sc around) is 3-4, so it’s quite safe to say this is around the number you can play around with. The thickness of a project also varies from the yarn type/size as well as the needle, so there is no exact way to tell unless you keep using the same yarn series and same needle size like I do. Remember, that in art is also about exploring, but consistency is also an essential factor.

Determining Shapes

The next question might arise: the upper part of the static phase gets slightly smaller. How do I do this? The answer is simple. After the static phase you will obviously start decreasing. This makes the round after the static phase slightly smaller, so no need to worry because it will form clean lines.

From this point on, it gets easier. If you refer back to the pusheen chart above, it’s quite obvious that basically in each phase it gets quite thick, one a little less than another. It means on each, you just need to do (sc around) after you decrease the amount of stitch. After that, you will just need to determine the amount of each phase (sc around). It sounds complicated, but if you actually follow this article while making the actual pusheen using my pattern you will notice that it’s actually pretty simple. Since I assume that everyone is quite familiar with pusheen already, even with a beginner’s gut feeling its quite easy to tell when would you need to stop the (sc around) and continue to the next decreasing phase.

Putting the cream on top, at the end is adding the ear parts we opted out earlier in the explanation, stuffing and sewing it close. Amigurumis might look slightly different after stuffing but it depends on the stuffing method and above all, your gut feeling you will grow the more you have the experience. The advantage of amigurumi is, after stuffing it’s especially quite easy to spot the mistake and count rounds. So if for instance, in one part you made one (sc around) too much or too less, you can simply just unravel the project and scratch+correct your notes for the design. Happy crafting! 🙂

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